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John Hardman's avatar

I was speaking to a Georgian waiter at a Ukrainian restaurant here in San Diego, CA and asked him why he left Georgia. He remarked it was because of the old Soviet-style corruption which makes it difficult to get ahead on merit alone. You mentioned the wealth disparity and hope you will discuss corruption in your next part. It seems exotic and I like your “living fossil” description.

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JustAnOgre's avatar

If the situation is anything like Armenia, then it is bad. It is like when the mayor and his buddies own all businesses in a town, employ everybody, can't ever be voted out for that reason and also because he openly threatens that an accident might happen to the water supply. There are two kinds of media, 90% is like support the government because Azerbaijan is the devil, and 10% is the "opposition" that says the government does not do enough against Azerbaijan. And the biggest sector of the economy is young people working abroad and sending money home.

One interesting side-effect of this age of global migrations is that some countries abolish themselves through everybody capable leaving them.

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Emerging Market Skeptic's avatar

"side-effect of this age of global migrations is that some countries abolish themselves through everybody capable leaving them..." That's the Baltic countries and Ukraine! Armenia also has one of the largest US embassies in the world which should tell you who is running that country and running it into the ground! 😅 Also, large Armenian community in the Central Valley of CA around Fresno etc. (I love their Aram sandwiches!) - not sure what sort of political power they have in the US though as my understanding is the Aziris are also throwing alot of their oil $ around DC...

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JustAnOgre's avatar

The Baltics? Why? They are doing well economically. Also I never seen a single person from there during 3 years in the UK and 15 in Austria - and these languages are most common to learn. I understand they like Scandinavia but are they really learning Swedish before they learn English?

Whatever the embassy size, Armenia used to have a tight relationship with Russia, cooling only recently as apparently Russia could not or did not want to help them against Azerbaijan.

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Emerging Market Skeptic's avatar

The Baltics have demographic issues - falling birth rates, aging population, not sure where their young immigrate to + they discriminate against their Russian minorities (who are also probably leaving for Russia). I knew a couple of Lithuanians who were in Asia for AIESEC internship stints - don't recall them having particularly distinct accents... I thought some of them also recently killed or really restricted their global nomad or retirement programs (EU pressure) but still have citizen by descent progs (which don't really seem to attract new permanent residents - just people who want EU passports)...

I know the Russians with Attitude podcast has explained how, historically, the Russians have long tried to help the Armenians (being fellow Orthodox) - only to NOT have the favour returned by them when it mattered... That's why the Russians won't help them anymore (despite the fact that Russia apparently has a very large Armenian minority). The Azeris give Russia a corridor to Iran and have oil - I don't think Armenia has anything to really offer the Russians...

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JustAnOgre's avatar

Russia exports oil, does not need to import it, but otherwise agree.

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John Hardman's avatar

Yes, Russia also comes to mind with its educated youth heading elsewhere for more promising futures. Just as a human can “bleed out” from a wound, so too can a nation…

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Ken Kasprowski's avatar

Excellent travelogue, I really enjoyed the read and how you have interwoven the personal, subjective recounting of the trip with historical facts and geopolitical analysis. You should travel more. :)

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Kathleen Weber's avatar

I loved your trip descriptions. You are an exceptional writer. Do you think the heavy traffic leading into Russia has something to do with sanctions evasion?

Typos:

"Coming together with the Romanticist is his husband;" should be HER husband.

Morning job with the Engineer along Kura River, Tbilisi--should be JOG

Barbwire never has an -s. It is a collective like deer or fish.

Ducks quack, they don't quake. Quake means shake, like an earthquake.

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Robert Wu's avatar

All corrected!! I actually independently spotted the "quack", but still missed the other three :( Thanks Editor Kathleen!

As for the traffic, from what I gather, it happens not "because" of the sanctions, but "despite" the sanctions. There has historically been very strong trading ties between the two countries, and I will comment on it in the Part 2.

I have also heard that recent tension between Armenia and Azerbaijian also plays a role here. Russia is a major supporter of Armenia, a landlocked country to the south of Georgia. Many of the trucks are actually driving between Russia and Armenia, transitting through Georiga.

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J M Hatch's avatar

Russia has been told to take a hike by Armenia's current PM and Washington client. Georgia's current ruling party has survived three known colour revolution attempts by NED, so I wonder what this foretells for relationships between the 3 nations .

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Kathleen Weber's avatar

I bow to your knowledge of the Georgia which exceeds my own by a factor of 100. I was simply guessing about a reason for the heavy traffic. Your explanation makes total sense.

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JustAnOgre's avatar

OK, but what are the three principles?

1. Be mountainous. This principle you know well, because Taiwan. Yes I am trolling a bit, but also for real, this is how the history of Switzerland worked out and so on.

2. Be allies with the great power far against the great power near.

3. Play connectivitiy. Connectivity is an idea developed by the government of Hungary, and basically it means that if one puts a Chinese factory next to a German factory in a conveniently located country, they will figure out some deal with each other, and both will be interested in maintaining the status quo.

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Robert Wu's avatar

There is a lot of overlap with mine

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Alexandre Faure's avatar

Regarding the relations between Russia and Georgia, it seems that the majority party, Pro-Russian, is trying to get rid of all opponents (who are pro-Western) in order to make a rapprochement with Russia, to the great displeasure of the population which is - as you point out - rather anti-Russian. A recent article that takes stock of the situation: https://www.politico.eu/article/georgia-opposition-ban-georgian-dream-party-election-eu-enlargement-irakli-kobakhidze/

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Zaki Khalid's avatar

This was a rivering read. You write really good, Robert!

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钟建英's avatar

Thanks for sharing your journey, and great photos!

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J M Hatch's avatar

A visit to a clinic or hospital ER is a great way to learn about a country, so much so that unless it's a very short trip I'll try to pop in to see. @PeoplesDispatch on YouTube has interviews of nurses working in Georgia about a year ago, which might do if you didn't have the opportunity.

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Robert Wu's avatar

Great idea, will do

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